|
Bungee
Jumping Equipment
Specifications
here are for informational purposes only. If you attempt to bungee jump
without proper instruction you are not only dangerous, but stupid. Proper
training is even more important than equipment. Bungee accidents are almost
invariably the result of human error. Steve Fettke assumes no liability
for the misuse of any information on this web site.
Bungee
Cords:
There
are two main types of bungee jumping cords, sheathed and all-rubber.
Sheathed
cords were the first cords used for bungee jumping, initially by England's
Oxford Dangerous Sports Club. Often times these cords are called shok
cord or mil-spec (from military specification, they were designed to connect
parachutes and heavy equipment such as jeeps, when dropping the load from
an aircraft, the cords absorb the shock of the canopy opening, to prevent
damage to the parachute). They have a rubber core, encased in a cotton,
and/or nylon sheath. These cords look like big versions of the bungee
cords you use to strap a load to your car roof, hence the name bungee.
Depending on their
weight an individual jumps on three to six, 5/8" diameter cords bundled
together. Each cord has a minimum breaking strength of 1500 pounds, and
high altitude jumps have been done from aircrafts with over 1000 feet
of a single cord. By the correct number of cords for a specific body weight
the cords stretch to approximately 2.1 times their resting length while
jumping and have a breaking strength that is ten times greater that the
forces exerted on them during jumping. Variations
of this cord with a longer elongation have been developed for bungee jumping.
All-rubber
cords were developed in New Zealand specifically for bungee jumping.
They are comprised of over 1000 individual strands of rubber tied together
into one solid cord. All-rubber cord stretches to approximately 4 times
it's resting length while jumping. This results in less impact or G-forces
to the jumpers body, than sheathed cords. The lack of the sheath results
in less friction and heat generation, and hence less loss of energy than
sheathed cord. These factors result in bigger rebounds on all-rubber cords.
Approximately 85% on the first rebound versus about 75% on sheathed cords.
Variations of this cord with less elongation have been developed, stretching
to approximately 3 times their resting length. This results in cords with
a longer life, about 1000 jumps versus 400, however I feel this results
in a jerky ride and less rebound. Another variation of the cord is to
include 1" static webbing built onto the cord, such as the cord at
left. This serves as a back up and to keep the cord from over-elongating.
I have jumped about
300 times on sheathed cords and about 800 on all-rubber. I wouldn't pass
up a jump on either if it were offered by a competent operator.
Harnesses:
Chest and waist
harnesses should be used for beginning
jumpers and shorter jumps. With these harnesses the cord is connected
to your body very close to your center of gravity/rotation. This setup
produces the least stress on your body.
Ankle
harnesses allow for head dips, graceful jumping and advanced stunts.
They should be used by jumpers with a little experience. If you jump and
just stand straight up, the cord will whip you upside down when you reach
the end of your free-fall. Also, at the end of your jump when you are
waiting to be raised to the jump platform or lowered to the ground, you
are either hanging upside down or have brought yourself into the pogo
position (see stunts).
Bungy Knot
(not shown) is the New Zealand style ankle tie in. A towel is wrapped
around your legs for padding, then a loop of webbing is tied in a slip
knot around your ankles.
|